Your breeding pair should also be at the peak of health, so choose betta fish with no deformities, injuries, or signs of disease, such as white spots or a lethargic nature. The answer to how to breed betta fish comes down to choosing a healthy pair and ensuring that conditions are perfect for mating. In addition, carefully introducing the fish and monitoring them as they mate will ensure that all of the fish, including the baby bettas, remain healthy and safe. This will help prevent chemical spikes, which can cause health issues while breeding the betta fish or even killing the betta fry.
Successfully breeding betta fish often depends on whether the breeding tank environment is correct for constructing a lasting bubble nest and the hatching of the eggs. To create an ideal environment, the air at the top of the tank should be quite humid. It is not just the tank, you will also want to make sure that your male and female betta fish are ready to mate.
You should condition both fish for about two weeks before adding them to the breeding tank. To condition the fish, provide rich, meaty foods , such as bloodworms, tubifex worms, or daphnia for Betta. These foods can be frozen or freeze-dried, although live foods often offer better nutrition. These foods should be provided to the betta breeding pair between two and four times each day, but only give small amounts during each feeding.
Give the female time to explore her new surroundings before you introduce the male to the tank. Remember that successfully breeding betta fish often comes down to ensuring that both fish are as comfortable as possible. Breeding betta fish really begins when both fish have been introduced to the breeding tank. Once the male betta fish takes notice of the female, he will begin to flare his fins at her, dancing around her in order to attract her attention.
His colors will also deepen and become more vivid. The changes in the female betta will be even more noticeable. Her colors will also deepen, and dark stripes will appear on her body. These stripes should be vertical. This is the ovipositor, and it is where the eggs will come from. These changes are a key signal that she is ready to breed. One of the most fascinating aspects of how to breed bettas is the bubble nest. Once he becomes interested in the female, the male betta fish will begin to construct this nest.
The nest is, as the name suggests, made of air bubbles coated in saliva. Each betta fish, such as the Imbellis betta builds a nest that he likes, so there can be big differences in the size and shape of the nest from fish to fish. The bubble nest serves two purposes. First, it helps a female betta judge whether the male is a fit mate for her.
The male will then pick up the eggs and 'blow' them into the nest and thereafter he will guard them until they hatch. Mouth-brooding bettas come from waters where the surface is not still, like streams, making it impossible to build a nest. To breed them, clear clean water and substrate ranging from mud to gravel is needed depending on the Betta species. Dense vegetation should be planted into the aquarium. Their water temperature should be cool, say between 65 and 75 degrees F.
Flowing streams coming from the highlands have cooler water. At 80 degrees Fahrenheit and above the fish will be visibly stressed. To tell the difference between male and female, as in most Bettas, the female has a smaller head, she is duller in color and smaller in body size. They should be fed bloodworms , frozen daphnia and most meaty foods. Like the bubble nest building bettas, the male and female fish should be separated, for a week at the least.
Occasionally a pair of mouth brooding bettas may 'dance' and the female having her fins flared out may dance around the male to attract his attention during the courtship. With the mouth brooding Betta species, it is the female who starts the spawning. Spawning will generally take place inside a plant pot, with the same procedure of most anabantids, the male "embracing" the female. After spawning the male will gather the eggs in his mouth or the female may pick the eggs up into her mouth and spit them to him.
The process can take up to quite a few hours. Unlike the bubble-nest-building Bettas, the female guards the area which the male takes to brood. And her ovipositor will be visible as a speck of white between her ventral fins. Pro Tip: Some females are shy, clamping heir fins in submission or ignoring the male.
But, as long as they have the barring pattern, not the horizontal stripes , you can be confident to continue. After approximately one hour after the initial introduction, you should notice the male start building his bubble nest. This creates moisture and keeps the heat in. You want your tank to be very humid because it aids the hatching of eggs and the development of the fry. This is normal behavior, but, you should keep a close eye on what is happening just in case it turns sour.
Pro Tip: This is why you add the Christmas moss. It gives the female places to hide if things get too much for her. Throughout this process, your female will keep checking on the nest. Some will directly swim up to the male with their heads down and fins clamped to show her submissiveness; others will charge the nest, banners flaring, and challenge the male to spawn.
Pro Tip: If at any point, you feel very concerned about your females safety because of how aggressive the male is being — take her out. Pro Tip: For first-timers, this may take a few attempts before they get it right.
You remember your first time? Not the smoothest or process, eh? Your male will then release her and allow her some time to recover minutes before they do it again.
The purpose of this embrace is to place the ventrals close to each other to improve the chance of fertilization. When your female recovers, she may help your male put the eggs in the nest. However, some females will eat the eggs, so watch carefully and remove her if she is. I recommend taking her out of the tank as soon as she has woken up, because your male will now see her as a threat and could try to kill her. Pro Tip: Bettas need privacy and sometimes will not spawn if the light it on.
Having Almond leaves will darken your tanks water, helping them feel more comfortable. Over the nest hours, your male will spend all of his time attending to the eggs: mouthing them and blowing more bubbles. Your fry will hang tail-down for the first few days, and slowly start taking on a horizontal swimming position. You can click here coming soon to see our guide on how to successfully raise Betta fry. Thanks Betta Lover Dee. Hello Dee, thank you for your comment.
You can breed different tail types but the chance of the fry will have a crossed tails between a veil and a crown tail or etc. The growing tank must be kept pristine, and the water conditions must be right. Betta fry will only eat live food and tiny particles at that. As the fry grow, they must be moved into new containers, particularly as young males begin to grow and become more territorial.
There are several different methods used by breeders for growing-out betta fry. Some breeders transfer the fry right away into a grow-out tank, whereas others keep the fry in the breeding tank for the first three to four weeks before moving them to the grow-out tank. However, regardless of what method you prefer, you will ultimately need to move the fry to a special grow-out setup.
Betta fry are highly susceptible to poor tank conditions, including water quality and temperature. The ideal pH for a betta fry tank is 7 to 7. The correct water temperature is a crucial element for successfully maintaining and growing the fry. The temperature in the grow-out tank should be between 85 0 and 88 0 Fahrenheit for optimal growth.
Put a thermometer at the end of the tank opposite the heater. That enables you to check that the temperature is evenly distributed throughout the tank. Fry are highly sensitive to fluctuations in temperature, so you must ensure that conditions remain constant and stable. The safest and most effective method of carrying out water changes is to use a siphon to remove water, dead fry, and uneaten food from the tank. Instead, use a length of narrow-gauge flexible tubing or a turkey baster.
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